Hi, in my Amigurumi Workshop #21 I would like to show you the small version of Rabbit Dude – pattern by LittleOwlsHut. In my previous AW #20 I told you about Big Rabbit Dude and now it’s time for the small version. I translated the pattern into Polish and it is available in LittleOwlsHutPolski Etsy shop. Pattern in US is available on Etsy. Have a nice reading & watching!
Link to my Amigurumi Workshop #21 is below:
The designer: Svetlana Pertseva, skill level: experienced
Materials and tools:
✓ Crochet hook – (big version) 1.5 mm or any other suitable size for the selected yarn
✓ Main yarn “Andre Classic” Alpina (60% acrylic, 35% viscose, 5% spandex, 530m /100g), or any velour type yarn. Yellow 15g, white 14g, pink 2m
✓ Crochet hook – (small version) 0.75 mm or any other suitable size for the selected yarn
Finished size:Big rabbit, approx. 20 cm/7.8 inches tall without ears using the materials stated in the pattern.
Small rabbit, 11 cm/4.3 inches tall without ears using the materials stated in the pattern.
In the end of the pattern you will find instructions how to make the sailor (by Elena Vodorez), so if you want to make the sailor, read the instruction firstly before you start the rabbit and mark the changes on the pattern.
Pattern in USA terminology.
I used yarn Drops Baby Merino, 1.75 mm crochet hook.
02 off white
23 light beige
43 light sea green
Firstly the designer recommends you to crochet a swatch to check if your rabbit will be the same size as in the pattern. I didn’t crochet the swatch.
In the pattern there is a tip how to stuff the parts of the rabbit – you may stuff the small parts (like fingers) using the yarn tails from the beginning and end of the piece; for long parts (like limbs) you may thread a double length of the yarn down to the bottom of the limb and back up again.
Firstly I crocheted the TAIL (you don’t have to align the marker).
Then I started the ARMS with fingers. I crocheted 8 fingers – 4 for each hand, there’s no need to align the marker. I stuffed the fingertip softly, as stated in the pattern and then didn’t stuff.
I didn’t fasten off the 3rd finger because then I started to join the fingers into a HAND. The marker goes up the centre of the palm from the middle finger – you have to make shift stitches to keep the marker straight. In the pattern you will find detailed schemes how to join the fingers into the left and right hand. I joined the thumb by crocheting single crochets hooking through the sts of the thumb and the hand and then along the unworked sts of the thumb in next round. I stuffed the hand slightly and didn’t stuff any further.
Then I crocheted the LEG. I made 6 toes – 3 for each foot. You don’t have to keep the marker straight. Each toe has different size (big, middle, little), so I had to make the note after crocheting each toe to avoid the mistake. I didn’t fasten off the little toe and then joined the toes into a FOOT.
Marker goes along the side of the foot, from the little toe and you have to keep it straight with shift stitches.
I used different colors to make stripes but I changed colors as stated in the pattern.
The designer recommends not to keep the marker straight while crocheting the arms and legs because it adds much to the rabbit’s charm.
After crocheting the right leg I didn’t fasten off because I continued the BODY.
The marker runs up the center back of the body and you have to make shift stitches to keep it straight. The body is stuffed firmly.
I started from the inner part of the right leg. While joining legs I had to make shift stitches on the right leg before joining to the left leg because my legs were a bit twisted and I had to adjust their position. You will have to place new round marker, so follow the instructions and schemes in the pattern how to join both legs.
While crocheting the body I joined the tail hooking through the stitches of the tail and the body.
Before joining the arms make sure that the marker is placed in the center back of the body. The arms are joined in rnd 28, hooking through the stitches of the arm and the body.
Before crocheting the head you should make the inner mouth and ears firstly. For the INNER MOUTH I used pink YarnArt Jeans (3ply – I removed 1 thread to make the yarn thinner, adjusted to my main yarn Drops Baby Merino).
Then I crocheted the EARS – you don’t have to keep the marker straight. Ears are not stuffed. You can crochet shorter or longer ears. I chose shorter ears – I crocheted the ears to rnd 38 and then continued from rnd 48, as written in the pattern.
I didn’t fastened off the second ear and continue crocheting the HEAD. Firstly I joined the ears hooking through the sts of the first nad the second ear and placed new round marker. The marker goes from the top of the head along the center front to the mouth. You have to make shift stitches.
I also placed additional markers – a piece of yarn in different colours required for needle sculpting.
1 – red; 2 – blue; 3 – beige; 4 – pink; 5 – green; 6 – yellow
Neck marker - orange
The inner mouth is crocheted together with the head, hooking through the sts of the mouth and the head in rnd 28.
EYES and EYELID (not stuffed). I made the eyes with white Alize Bella. Dental floss is wrapped around the middle of the eyes to divide the eyes in two. You can make the whites with polymer clay. I crocheted the whites. Then I placed the eyes into crochet one eyelid. I used brown yarn for sewing the eyes and shaping the eyelids.
TEETH – in the pattern you will find two versions for the teeth – the second one (see the picture below: on the right) is made by Valeria Zhemchugova, so choose the version you like. I made the teeth with white Alize Bella. I chose the version by LOH, because they look better for me after sewing to the rabbit's muzzle (on the left).
I needle sculpted the head regarding the marked points. I used beige yarn for needle sculpting.
I sewed the eyes, nose and teeth onto the head. I chose the first version by LOH of the teeth.
I sewed the pupils (black beads). Pupils can be also embroidered.
I sewed the neck to the head, stuffed the neck firmly and attached.
The chin should be aligned with the shoulders when viewed from the side.