Rabbit Dude - big version (pattern by LittleOwlsHut)

In my Amigurumi Workshop #20 I would like to present you Rabbit Dude – pattern by LittleOwlsHut. This is big version of the rabbit, however some times ago LOH released the small version of the rabbit and I’m going to present you the small rabbit in my next video. Have a nice watching/reading ;)
The link to my Amigurumi Workshop #20 (EN) is below

The designer: Svetlana Pertseva, skill level: experienced

Materials and tools:

Yarn:

•  pink color yarn – any yarn. I used approximately 5 skeins of “Baby Softy” by Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).
•  white color yarn – any yarn that crochet to the same gauge as pink color yarn. I used approximately 2 skeins of white “Baby Softy” by Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).
•  red or bright pink color yarn – any yarn that crochet to the same gauge as pink color yarn. I used approximately 10 m of bright pink “Baby Softy” by Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).

You can buy this yarn as a set here
https://www.etsy.com/shop/LittleOwlsHutRUSSIAN

Tip: You can use any fluffy yarn (chenille, velour, wool, etc). The thicker the yarn, the bigger your toy will be. Make sure the yarn you use is soft. If you use the yarn that is too stiff, you will not be able to shape the muzzle nicely.
Note: If you use finer yarn, for example, “Nubuk” by Kartopu (22% acrylic, 78% polyamide, 550m/100g), your toy will turn out 45 cm (17.7 inches). In this case you will need approximately 1 skein of pink color yarn, a quarter of skein of white color yarn and small amount of red or bright pink color yarn.

•  Crochet hook. I used 2.0 mm (approximately US steel hook 1, UK steel hook 1).
•  Two ready-made eyes (I used 18-20 mm in diameter). You can use beads or half beads instead.
•  Sewing needle and tapestry needle for needle sculpting.
•  Strong thread for needle sculpting.
•  A piece of thick cloth to make the neck firmer (optional).
•  Stuffing.

Finished size: approx. 65 cm (25.6 inches) tall without ears/95 cm (37.4 inches) tall with ears included using the materials stated in the pattern.
Pattern in USA terminology.

***

When I make Amigurumi Workshop I always translate the pattern into Polish but this pattern was translated by another person – you may purchase it on Etsy in LittleOwlsHutPolski shop. I’m currently translating the pattern for the small rabbit and it will be released soon.
Pattern for big Rabbit Dude in English US

***

For big rabbit I used Alize Softy but I made the rabbit not with 2 colors but with more colors I had in my stash, so I used approx 2 skeins of red and 2 skeins of black and one skein of blue, beige and yellow.
In some parts of the rabbit there is need to add shift stitches – it is explained in the pattern.
Firstly I crocheted a swatch to check the gauge for the toy to get the same final size as in the pattern – the diameter of the swatch is 4.5 cm.


I started from the arms with fingers and the legs with toes. In the pattern the designer firstly crochet face details: the mouth, teeth, eyes, nose and head. I left these parts for the end because I prefer to begin with the limbs.

Let's talk about the ARMS. I crocheted 8 fingers (4 for each hand), then joined all the fingers into a hand. The marker goes along the palm (from the middle finger), so there is need to make shift stitches. The thumb was joined by crocheting single crochets through the sts of the hand and the thumb and then along the unworked sts of the thumb in the next round.

After crocheting the arms I started the LEGS.
I crocheted 6 toes - big, middle and little for each foot. Each toe has different size, so I added note for the big, middle and little toe to join them in the right order and make no mistake.

Then I joined the toes into a foot starting from the little toe, so you don’t fasten off the little toe. Marker goes along the side, from the little toe, that’s why there is need to make shift stitches.

In the pattern there is information about stuffing – the arms as well as the legs should be stuffed firmly to bounce back when you bend them.

You see changing colors. I kept the number of rounds stated in the pattern while changing colors but I added the colors at choice and used more colors. In the pattern there is written that you don’t have to keep the marker straight when you change colors. The designer recommends not to keep the marker straight because it adds much to the rabbit’s image. But you may keep the marker straight if you want to make the color changes in a straight line. I didn’t keep it straight for the arms and the legs.
I kept the number of stripes and the rounds they should be changed, but I added the colors at choice.

The pattern contains detailed photos with the schemes how to assemble hands and feet.

***

Then I started the BODY. Marker goes up the center of the back. You need to align the marker with shift sts. Follow the instruction how to join the legs. You may join them with the feet pointed to the sides or forward. I chose pointed forward, so I started from the inner part of the right leg.
The arms are joined in rnd 57 - be careful to join them with the thumbs facing forward. You join the arms hooking through the sts of the body and the arm.
The body with the arms and the legs is ready. The designer recommends to fold the last few rounds of the neck (at rnd 70) to the inside and you may insert the piece of thick cloth to stiff the neck.

EARS

Marker goes along the back and you need to make shift sts. Ears are not stuffed.

TAIL

FACE DETAILS

For the MOUTH I used YarnArt Jeans (antique rose) and crochet hook 2.5 mm. Mouth is worked in rows.

TEETH made with Alize white color and stuffed slightly.

EYES are made with Alize white and blue. They are made in the similar way as the eyes for fox Hans Fritz von Rosenblatt I presented you in Amigurumi Workshop no 18.
I inserted safety eyes 16 mm in diameter after crocheting rnd 10. You may also attach or glued ready-made eyes (beads or halfbeads).

NOSE - I used YarnArt Jeans (antique rose) and crochet hook 2.5 mm.

Finally I crocheted the HEAD.
The marker goes from the top of the head along the center front to the chin. You need to make shift stitches. I marked the points for needle sculpting while crocheting the head, regarding the description of the rounds. Different colors are used for different types of markers. Two points in the same rounds are counted to the left or to the right from the stitch marker:
1 – yellow; 2 – orange; 3 – red; 4 – beige; 5 – blue; 6 – pink
Neck markers: 1 – green, 2 – brown.

I added stripes – this is my version. In the pattern the head is crocheted with one color. I had to adjust the colors because I wanted to use lighter colors for the face. I used the yarns I’ve got in my stash.
You may needle sculpt the head before closing the opening but I chose to needle sculpt it later. The mouth are crocheted together with the head, hooking through the sts of the head and the mouth.
You see all the parts below:

***

The final size of my rabbit is almost the same as in the pattern.
Finally I needle sculpted the muzzle regarding the marked points. I used dental floss for needle sculpting.
I sewed the teeth, eyes & nose onto the head. Sewed the tail between rnd 8-14 at the back of the body. Then I attached neck & head. To firm the neck I used dark scraps. Fibrefill stuffing would stick out through the stitches, when the neck is stuffed really firmly, so I prefered to use the scraps of material (you may watch it in my video).
It is written in the pattern that the chin should align with the shoulders when viewed from the side. Finally I folded ears in half and sewed them together on the top of the head.

To sum up: Is it easy to make? Yes, but changing colors in particular rounds was really absorbing. And crocheting with Alize Softy is not so easy. I had to be very concentrated and count carefully the number of stitches in the round.

***
Subscribe my channel and blog.
Next video about the small rabbit soon.